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Types of Wood Floors
. . . .MANY considerations must be given when selecting a hardwood floor. The
following will help with your selection process. Here we will attempt to share
the many types, sizes, colours, application methods, and the variety of wood
floor species on the market today. This information is a general, overall
foundation in helping you start your search. Always look at several product
lines, make comparisons as to wear warranties, thicknesses, type of
construction, type and number of finish coats, as well as the many other
considerations we will outline herein. See Styles & Trends in Hardwood
Flooring.
The following Go2 directory is listed in the order of the selection process. ALL
subtitles are detailed on this page.
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Start by asking
yourself some simple questions:
What type of subfloor will the floor be installed over?
This will mandate the thickness and type of floor, glue down, nail down, or
floating; each product and manufacturer specify differently. Some application
may not fit your specific subfloor ,traffic zones, and may cause early wear, or
warranty concerns.
Where do I want a wood floor?
The area can determine type of product best for the traffic, size, and use of
the room. Some rooms work well with wood floors, and other do not.
Examples:
- Entry/Foyer - This area is often where
Custom
One-Of-A-Kind designs are installed. A popular area for medallions, feature
strips, accents and/or borders. Making a statement in this area is becoming more
often than not. Using walk off mats outside and if there is no design, area
carpets inside will help in keeping wear down. Foyers tend to be more formal
than not, being for show to guest as opposed to everyday use by family members.
Kitchens/Family rooms; this is the number one place for wood floor
installation in new construction. The ease of care, using both rooms as one,
and the flow of traffic make this a very popular area for wood floors. NOTE:
Kitchen wood floors should be screened (lightly sanded) and recoated as
needed, say every 8-18 months, depending on the amount of traffic and cleaning
habits. Good cleaning habits are very important part of maintaining a wood
floor, high traffic or not.
Bathrooms - a working day to day bathroom would not fair well with
wood floors, due to continued moisture exposure. On the other hand a guest
bathroom would be fine.
Home offices, Bedrooms - Often this sets a semi-formal decor, with
area carpets being used. Regular maintenance is required. NOTE: Rolling
furniture, chairs, TV stands etc., can damage the finish very quickly, if used
day to day. Make sure the floor is protected and/or the rollers are not made
of metal or other damaging materials.
Is this a high traffic area?
The finish and colour will be affected by this. Darker colours tend to show
traffic quicker, where as natural wood colours of oak and maple do not. High
traffic areas need special attention when it come to recoating. Screening (light
sanding) should be a part of the preventative maintenance program for your wood
floors in these areas. Application of 1 or 2 coats as needed (every 8-18 months)
is a good sound way to protect your investment. Make sure the finish being
applied is compatible with what is there and is of the shine that will work well
in that area. Satin or low shine urethanes tend to show less traffic patterns
than do the higher gloss finishes. Walk off mats are strongly suggested for
these areas, i.e.- working areas of a kitchens, entry ways, entries/doorways
from the outside.
What type of wood do you like or will fit the area?
Some types are more traffic friendly than others; Is this species to
"grainy" or busy looking ? Some species are harder than others. Maple
is harder than oak; has less grain, yet maple can not be stained. Remember, the
type of finish and number of coats can also determine how well your floor will
fair in high traffic areas.
What colour will work with the decor?
Some darker colours make rooms look smaller, show traffic patterns quicker.
Lighter, or natural colour of wood floor species can give an open, airy feeling,
making the room appear larger. With today's colour trends this is of the most
popular selections now being made by the consumer, in home and office alike.
Who is helping you make these choices?
Builders tend to stay with they same product that has worked before for them,
decorators tend to use colour as the number one reason for choosing a particular
product, which may not be suited for the area. Whether a pre-finished or job
finished product, have a sample of the wood floor material to make comparisons
with other products and other materials, such as the fabrics, paint colours and
textures being used in the room.
Who will maintain these floors?
That person needs to know the product as does the purchaser, most of time that
is the same person, but not always. Knowing The Dos
& Don'ts and Maintenance
Procedures is very important. Make sure that information is provided to you
and is a part of your contract. After the floor is installed, and this material
is provided to you, this is a good time to purchase
a wood floor cleaning kit, right from the get go !
All these question, as well as many others, are very important parts of the
process in choosing the right hardwood floor for you. Not knowing all the
answers could cause you concerns down the road.
Most importantly, as
we go through the selection process getting an experienced, and knowledgeable
contractor who knows wood floors is one of the best things you can do.!
DO NOT depend solely on your general contractor or design consultant. In
the end, an improper installation will only cost you the home owner, over and
above, whether its more money, more down time or having to involve an attorney,
or ALL of the above. Make sure you are dealing with a reputable wood flooring
retailer/contractor.
The reason for the above questions is to determine what floor is right for
the conditions where they will be installed; what conditions they will subjected
to; and last but not least, is this the right floor for you?
Some floors are more pleasing than others, but may not work in your conditions,
or may not work well with the traffic they will receive. The colour you like may
be OK with the decor, but bad for wear patterns. The type of wood, say pine for
example, (not a hardwood), does not stain well and is softer than oak causing it
to "dent" more. Many factors should play a part in your decision about
the choices you make when it comes to hardwood floors.
This listing of what is available, as to sizes, the many colours, type of
application and species we hope will help you in making an educated choice.
Remember manufacturers products vary from one to the next.
Hardwood Floors can be broken into
FIVE CATEGORIES:
- Acrylic Impregnated
A pre-finished product that through a high pressure treatment, acrylic and colour
are forced in the pores throughout the thickness of the wood. The
"finish" is inside the wood, creating an extremely hard surface.
These floors are highly resistant to abrasion and moisture and appeal most
often to commercial installations, but can be used residentially. The many
styles available are the same as laminated floors.
Engineered/Laminate wood flooring
Laminate wood flooring is produced by bonding layers of veneer and lumber with
an adhesive. Laminate wood flooring is available in pre-finished and
unfinished. These products are more dimensionally stable and are ideal for
glue-down installation or float-in installation above grade, on grade or below
grade, including basements and humid climates. Laminate wood flooring is
produced in:
Strip - thicknesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and in
widths of 2" and 2-1/4"
Plank - thicknesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and in
widths of 3" to 8"
Parquet - one-piece wood tile available in 9" x 9" or 8" x
8" and other patterns
- Pre-finished wood flooring
Pre-finished flooring is factory sanded and finished flooring that only needs
installation. Comes in many colours, species and sizes.
Solid wood flooring
Solid wood flooring is completely lumber. It is available in unfinished and
pre-finished. Solid wood flooring is produced in:
Strip - in thicknesses of 1/2" or 3/4" in widths of 1-1/2, 2"
and 2-1/4"
Plank - in thicknesses of 1/2" or 3/4" and widths of 3" to
8"
Parquet - geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place
by mechanical fastening or an adhesive.
Unfinished wood flooring
Unfinished flooring is a product that must be job-site sanded, stained if
desired, and finished after installation. This has been the American staple in
hardwood floors for many years. Commonly called "Strip flooring",
this product has not changed for many years as to size, cuts & grades. A
3/4" thick unfinished strip floor can be sanded from four(4) to six(6)
times in it's lifetime.
Each Category having 3 Sub-Categories of:
- Parquet
wood pieces forming a pattern/design-thicknesses of 1/4"- 5/16"
1/2" & 3/4" mostly glue down
- Plank
board face widths 3" & up to 12" with thicknesses from
1/4", 5/16", 3/8",5/8", 9/16" and 3/4", glue or
nail down.
- Strip
usually considered the "hardwood floor", face width sizes of 1
1/2", 2 1/2" and 2 1/4", with 1/2" and 3/4"
thicknesses, glue or nail down
NOTE: As a rule 3/4" products are mostly nailed (larger parquet patterns
are both nailed and glued)
* * Specifics about
your wood floor: * *
Now that we know that they are many, many products to choose from, let's get a
little more specific in the decision making process. These requirements should
always be in the equation of what type of floor is right for you, your
conditions, and your budget. Most importantly, this will educate you, and your
contractor about what is required for proper and good installation.
The following list of requirements should be covered and/or included in
specifications and contracts before the final wood floor selection is made.
Never assume the top grade or cut is being used.
-
Subfloor:
What will it be. Is this on the manufacturer's recommendation of the product you
want use? The manufactures specifications should be followed as well as if not
in conjunction with industry guidelines. Over concrete slabs, lets say,
1/8" of deviation in 10 feet is the norm. Plywood subfloors should not
contain more than 4 % +/- of moisture than the flooring being laid over it.
- Installation:
What type of installation method is required ? What is the nailing schedule
(how far apart are the nails placed) or what type of adhesive is needed
(always use manufacturers adhesive products-if not warranties may be voided).
Has the wood floor material been properly handled prior to installation ? Has
it acclimated at the job site( In HVAC conditions- those that are normal for
the area under regular living conditions?), Are the moisture contents of the
wood floor products and the subfloor compatible? Whether you, your architect,
builder, or designer helps in the decision making about your wood floors, you
must do your homework. The following are additional details you must consider,
or have specified when knowing what hardwood floor will be installed.
Type of Installation?
There are Three(3) INSTALLATION METHODS
for Laminated/Engineered Wood Floors include:

- Floated - usually 1/8" urethane foam sheeting or may be glued
directly to subfloor
- Glued - using Manufacturers recommended adhesive
- Nailed or Stapled (all 3/4" material) - as per manufacturers
specifications of nailing schedule
See Wood Floors Installation Procedures - Industry Standards
- Species:
What type of wood do you want? It's important, for example oak floors could
mean ten (10) or so different products, of 3 different grades.
- Grade:
Different species have different standards, some none at all. The higher the
grade the "clearer" or more top of the line the product is.
- Cut:
The angle in relation the grain as the log goes through the saw, 3 cuts are
standard, plain, quartered, or rift-sawn: The harder cut (quartersawn has
closer pours, thus making moisture less of an intruder.)
Dimensions:
What is the thickness and width of the floor you have chosen ? What are the
lengths? This could important if adjoining floor covering at doorways are not
properly adjusted for. Some time the pattern of the product you have chosen
may not be right for your installation. Always know or have specified the
lengths, widths and thickness of the wood floor choice you made.
Pattern:
The most common is with strip or plank, the direction may depend on the
subfloor joist (nail down), parquet may be in many patterns and/or designs
from simple to intricate cuts and designs.
- Colour:
Always request a sample pre-finished or unfinished (including final finish
type). Every manufacturer has there specific trademark colour. Today the
naturals (oak, and maple) are the most popular. Remember, there will always be
some colour variation between boards, as each piece may very well be from a
different tree.
(see Styles and Trends: 2000 UPDATE)
Make sure the above specifications are spelled out, this will ensure the
product information is correct. This is very important as everyone involved in
the process ( you, the architect, designers, builder/contractor and there
associates) may not have the same specification details as you or the person
helping you specify the job. Today there are a great number of products
available, from thicknesses, widths, styles, colours, patterns, and varieties.
Remember all manufacturers have their own "trademark" colours, sizes
& styles. For instance natural oak coloured floors has more than 30 names
throughout the industry. If it's an unfinished product, to be job finished, the
sky is the limit on colour.
Finally, check several retailers/contractors, there samples, and
Showrooms, (Visit our Photo Gallery for Design Ideas) . Ask for a sample
that can be used to take to the areas that will receive the hardwood floor.
Listen to input from your contractor, and design consultant. The floor you like
may not suit the area. The colour may not work with the overall scheme of the
decor. Always ask questions, if in doubt, not sure, ASK ! Its much better the
know ahead what to expect, than after the fact and the floor is in place. The
more specific information shared commonly among ALL participating parties, the
less chance of misunderstandings and problems will occur.
Ask these simple questions to your wood floor and/or general
contractor:
- Always know the above specifics, have them in writing, and if possible
have a sample and/or brochure about the product.
- Checkout your contractor, get references, is a license required ?
- Get a written and properly executed contract !
- How long will the job take? From delivery of an unfinished product,
acclimation, through installation, finishing and moulding installation, the
time table can be 4-6 weeks for this part of the process.
- What are the warranties and guarantee? , get it in writing as a part of
the contract. Most contractors warrantee their work for 1 year, although
they DO NOT warrantee the product. Look to the Manufacturer through their
representatives (Distributors to Retailer) for ALL concerns about the
product.
- At what stage is the job ready for installation
(see JOB SITE
CONDITIONS) - This should be closely scheduled with general contractor and/or
other trades.
Will the contractor be doing the work himself? If not who.
Request a walk through with the contractor (general and wood floor) and/or
person who estimated the job.
Make sure any concerns are dealt with in a timely manner.
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